Borderland

Lviv, January 2009 No Ukrainian apartment is complete without an eccentricity or two. The clean, stylish place on vulytsya Fedorova in Lviv, which Ana and I had rented for two days in January, was no exception. It played its first couple of tricks on us even before we had unpacked our suitcases. There was no … More Borderland

Winter in Ukraine

Over New Year I spent a week in Lviv, in the west of Ukraine near its border with Poland, and a week in Luhansk province, 1200 kilometres to the east, on the border with Russia. At both ends of the 26-hour train journey the snow on the ground was ankle-deep, sometimes falling in blizzards, and the temperature on some days was as low as minus 21 degrees celcius. … More Winter in Ukraine

The Night Train

The new people, places and situations that we encounter during our lives shape the way that we view the world. In late July 2008 I experienced all three at the same time, during an overnight train journey between Hungary and Ukraine in the middle of my vacation from the law firm in Kyiv where I had been working. The journey will stay in my mind for longer than the holiday itself. … More The Night Train