My Golden Ones: the Road to Pamukkale (Turkey)

The sun rises above the palm trees as we leave Kemer. It lights up the Taurus Mountains on the left of the road, changing them from a purple silhouette into a series of steep, green hills. As we join the road to Antalya the bus stops every few hundred yards to pick up more holidaymakers from the hotels in its affluent suburbs. By the time we reach Gőynűk the bus is full, but its passengers are barely making a sound. Soon I am the only one awake. The sea to our right was calm, shimmering as the low sun above it threw bright, pale light on to the water. It is because of mornings like this that Turks call the Mediterranean Akdeniz – the White Sea. … More My Golden Ones: the Road to Pamukkale (Turkey)


Lviv, January 2009 No Ukrainian apartment is complete without an eccentricity or two. The clean, stylish place on vulytsya Fedorova in Lviv, which Ana and I had rented for two days in January, was no exception. It played its first couple of tricks on us even before we had unpacked our suitcases. There was no … More Borderland

The Night Train

The new people, places and situations that we encounter during our lives shape the way that we view the world. In late July 2008 I experienced all three at the same time, during an overnight train journey between Hungary and Ukraine in the middle of my vacation from the law firm in Kyiv where I had been working. The journey will stay in my mind for longer than the holiday itself. … More The Night Train