‘Letter from Yoshkar-Ola (Republic of Mari El, Russia)’ – for The Calvert Journal

At 7am the streets of Yoshkar-Ola were dark and empty. As I shuffled over dirty snow and treacherous black ice, the only sound was the bickering of ravens overhead. The shops on ulitsa Kremlyovskaya – Apteka No. 67; Evroset; Moda 21 vek – told me that I had arrived in provincial Russia. Except that ul. Kremlyovskaya is also Kreml urem: street signs and building plaques are written in Russian and Meadow Mari, the most widely spoken of the four Mari dialects.

I made a beeline for the peculiar buildings in the distance. … More ‘Letter from Yoshkar-Ola (Republic of Mari El, Russia)’ – for The Calvert Journal

Photographs from Slovenia in the book ‘Remarkable Cricket Grounds’

In 2014 I joined a cricket team from North Wales, Carmel CC, on an unusual cricket tour – to the Former Yugoslavia. Two years later, some of my photographs from our game at the Surnikovo ground in the Slovenian Alps, against Mežica CC, have been included in Brian Levison ‘s new book Remarkable Cricket Grounds. … More Photographs from Slovenia in the book ‘Remarkable Cricket Grounds’

A translation for The Guardian: ‘I want to live in style’ – the gay provocateur defying rebels in eastern Ukraine

I was recently asked by the Calvert Journal, a website about contemporary culture in the post-Soviet world, to translate an article written in Russian by the journalist Denis Boyarinov for the journal Takie Dela. Today the English version of the article was republished by the Guardian, appearing here on its New East Network, and on the homepage … More A translation for The Guardian: ‘I want to live in style’ – the gay provocateur defying rebels in eastern Ukraine

‘Postcard from Noravank monastery, Armenia’ – for Elsewhere Journal

For my first few days in Armenia my mind was elsewhere. I was searching for signs of the two worlds that overlap in the South Caucasus, where wild Eurasian land is punctuated by the Cyrillic – and the shambles – of the post-Soviet space… … More ‘Postcard from Noravank monastery, Armenia’ – for Elsewhere Journal

‘Five things that will surprise you in Armenia’ – for Wandelion

Taking the train between Yerevan and Gyumri was going to be the highlight of my time in Armenia – especially the journey through Ararat province. But on the day I went, Mount Ararat was hidden by clouds. Instead, the best part of my trip was the beautiful sight of white storks gliding above the farms and fields next to the train, and making their nests on top of the station buildings at Masis and Etchmiatsin. In Armavir province, hoopoes fly next to the train tracks. … More ‘Five things that will surprise you in Armenia’ – for Wandelion