Photo essay: Armenia’s sorrow (Yerevan to Gyumri by train)

I arrive at Yerevan’s train station just after dawn, and buy coffee and bread from the underpass between platforms – fuel for the four-hour journey to Gyumri, Armenia’s second city.

The train is dusty and dilapidated; it has hard seats and filthy windows. It goes slowly, bumpily, its wheels making soothing clunks on the rusted tracks.

The journey is haunting. The landscape of western Armenia looks abandoned, left for dead. But this isn’t so. This rocky corner of the Caucasus is far from an unwanted wasteland: it is one of the most emotionally charged places on earth. … More Photo essay: Armenia’s sorrow (Yerevan to Gyumri by train)

Stepantsminda (Kazbegi), Georgia

In the heart of the Caucasus Mountains, close to Georgia’s border with Russia’s North Ossetia, the village of Kazbegi is a breathtaking stop along the Georgian Military Highway.

People come here for the hike to Gergeti Trinity Church – a climb of 2170 metres (7120 feet) into the mountains. The trek through farmsteads and forests, and the view from the chapel, are stunning. … More Stepantsminda (Kazbegi), Georgia

My photographs in SEnECA’s ‘Daily Lives in Central Asia’ exhibition (BOZAR, Brussels – April 2019)

On 4 and 5 April 2019, two of my photographs will be displayed at the photo exhibition ‘Daily Life in Central Asia’, at the BOZAR Centre for Fine Arts in Brussels. … More My photographs in SEnECA’s ‘Daily Lives in Central Asia’ exhibition (BOZAR, Brussels – April 2019)

Waking up in İçərişəhər – Baku, Azerbaijan

Arriving in Baku, I would always come here first. Each time I would explore the maze of narrow sandstone streets within its walls, and walk past every little pale house – some empty, some with chattering coming from inside. I would drink sahlep on a low sofa at a cafe on Boyük Qala, while watching the street outside wake up; always climb up the Maiden Tower for a first sight of the Caspian Sea; always go into the Palace of the Shirvanshahs, to hear again the stories that Azerbaijan tells about itself. … More Waking up in İçərişəhər – Baku, Azerbaijan